Diary 12: Purbasthali : The love for winged species and marshes

                                    Ox-bow lakes have always managed to occupy a large portion of our Geography syllabi way back in our school days. It’s true that the geography text books never quite induced the magic associated with them. And maybe that’s why when Purbasthali welcomes you with her extensive wetlands, you can’t help but be awestruck by the sheer volume of life that a marshy ecosystem sustains every moment. 

 

                                             

 A long, long time ago, the mighty river Ganges decided to change her course(during one of her whims, I suppose) while flowing through the plains of Bengal. At a place known as Chupi Chor(or Purbasthali) located in the heart of the Kalna Subdivisional town of Burdwan district, Ganga formed an ox bow lake and started flowing in an altered course. The rich fertile soil of that region coupled with the moribund waters of the holy Ganges developed a unique ecosystem that blooms with life every moment. And when life blooms in full swing, the winged species are quick to call it their homes. Some prefer to call it their own home, while for others it serves as a winter retreat from the icy cold climate of Siberia.

                                                Purbasthali plays host to a multitude of winged species, both migratory and residential, attracting them with its offerings of food, shelter and a promise of security from those who threaten their very existence. Once-upon-a-time-poachers-turned-into-conservationists have helped develop Purbasthali into one of the best birding destinations in West Bengal. Located at a distance of 160kms from Kolkata, Purbasthali is very well connected through a network of state and national highways. Its nearest railhead is Purbasthali station (PSAE) which lies on the Burdwan-Katwa line. Local transit option is limited to electric ‘Toto’s which are quite inexpensive and fun to ride.

The first view of the beautiful marshes can be best experienced from the lone watchtower adjoining the boating ‘ghat’. It offers 360 degrees of unobstructed field of vision and helps to create a broad map of the region in your mind. The boatmen start to arrive at the Ghats from early morning. All of these boats are hand propelled and the boatmen usually charge Rs.150/hour for a boat. The entire stretch of the ox bow lake can be covered in 5-6 hours.

                                          As the boat starts meandering through the lively moorlands, a Kingfisher suddenly shoots past you, breaks the water surface and comes up with a prized catch! You are most welcome to watch him have his breakfast perched on a tree branch. Sometimes they aren’t that lucky because if it’s a puffed fish, they have to wait for the air inside the fish to get released before they can actually gulp it down. Wonderful, isn’t it?

Now that you have seen the common blue Kingfisher, it’s time to feast your eyes on a large group of pheasant tailed ‘Jacana’s who are busy figuring out their day’s menu in the marshes. The pheasant tailed Jacana and the bronze winged Jacana are easy to spot in these marshes thanks to their striking plumage. They are mostly found in portions of South-East Asia.

If you can manage to turn away from them, a small Pratincole gets ready to grab your attention. They are common in parts of Burma, Cambodia, Thailand and are widely regarded as long distance migrants. Their unmistakable chubbiness coupled with bright sparkling eyes make them endearing to bird lovers and humans alike! But don’t let their cuteness deceive you even for a moment. They can take off and change their flying direction at the drop of a pin, just like Swallows.

As the boat continues its journey towards the Ganges, a Purple Heron waits patiently for a catch. This member of the heronry usually breeds in  Europe, Asia and Africa. Once it has located its prey, the majestic flight takes place, as if in slow motion.

The hand powered boats help to keep the silence of the marshes intact and allows people to get up close and personal with the feathered visitors. And if you get too close, the birds suddenly start their flight and leave behind long lasting ripples on the otherwise placid water. The most easily disturbed ones are the flocks of pochards who take off instantly.

   

If left undisturbed, they spend hours and hours, bobbing up and down with the small ripples in a particularly joyous and peaceful rhythm. Like this flock, right here.

Occasionally you will find flocks of Ibis flying overhead and searching for places to sit and brood over life's complexities. They are extremely picky about calling a stretch of marsh, their own. Against a deep blue sky, the Ibis spread their wings and inspire people to dream of conquering new heights.

The birds of Purbasthali are a unique blend of Nature's most colorful gifts. They come in various shapes,sizes and colours with unique calls that reverberate through the waterbody adding a whole new dimension to the melancholic marshes. The ambiance of the place manages to strike a chord deep down a birding enthusiast's heart.

The calm, stagnant waters teeming with millions of insects and bird feed help bring the winged creatures extremely close to us each year. And we as responsible human beings should keep our part of the deal by ensuring their safety and wholehearted existence on the marshes. Their happy cacophony should be the only form of reward that we can hope to receive in the years to come. And every time we decide to get lost in their calls, a new birdie breaks out of the protective egg shell of the mother bird and looks up to the sky with the dream of spreading her tiny wings and exploring the great beyond. Let's help her to realize that dream :)

P.S. This beautiful trip was completed as a part of 'The Adventouring Buzzards Club' Republic Day Ride held on the 26th of January, 2018. A special round of thanks goes out to my fellow buzzards Somok Sarkar and Santanu Das for accompanying me to the marshes and enjoying every bit of our birding trip :)

This picture was clicked with our boatman Jayanta da!





And here's to the bulls which keep us on the road and bring us back home safely :) Thank you Royal Enfield !

Diary 8 : Mangalajodi: Tales from the Moorland

Moorlands have always been an evocative landscape, inspiring countless artists to render them in a mystical perspective. Mangalajodi is no exception. It is one of the largest marshes in Eastern India, sitting at the northern top of the Chilka (Chilika) Lake in Orissa. Often tagged as the "Birder's Paradise", it plays a dutiful, sincere and a loving host to a staggering figure of 9 million avifauna (as per 2010 census) during the peak season ( November-January ). What makes it even more beautiful is it's backstory.

                      Moors or swamps are supposed to be haunted. Innumerable mentions of swamp monsters and evil spirits have frequented Children's Literature through ages. In case of Mangalajodi, these monsters and evil spirits came in the form of men, mostly searching for a livelihood in the marshes. These fishermen used to spread nets and capture the poor birds and sell their meat to the local restaurants and hotels. The sheer number of birds visiting the marshes each year made this livelihood even more enticing. And then one fine day an angel, again in the form of a human decided to change the fate of this marsh forever. His name was Nanda Kishore Bhujabal. He started a lifelong fight for the birds and after years of persuasion and pitfalls and struggles, his vision started slowly coming back to life. Together with the Royal Bank of Scotland and Indian Grameen Services, he proposed an alternative livelihood for the erstwhile poachers to turn into watchful protectors who would take pride in conserving Mother Nature's rich basket of feathers,beaks and shrill calls. These fishermen have now become full time watchmen keeping a silent vigil on anyone and everyone who might try to harm the avifauna. They serve as oarsmen and guides, taking tourists on boat rides through the marshes, pointing out the myriad varieties of birds and sharing valuable information about their life cycle.

                        Mangalajodi, with its fair share of migratory and resident birds lies near the NH16. It is located 80 kms away from Bhubaneshwar. Nearest airport is the Bhubhaneshwar airport. Adjacent railheads are Mukteshwar(Puri) and Balugaon. There are ample road signs all along the way so that it's very easy to spot. Staying options are limited to Mangalajodi Ecotourism Cottage and Godwit Eco Cottage. Both of them can be booked online. It's best to book atleast a month in advance during the peak season.

From the Mangalajodi Eco Tourism Cottage, a reddish gravel road runs for 2.5 km to the Jetty. The shrill voices of almost a million birds can be heard even before you have reached the jetty. Their sharp yet pleasant calls against a tranquil village background track offer a stark but a welcoming contrast. The only way to explore the vast stretches of the swamp is the locally made wooden boats that are propelled by the muscle power of the boatmen. The depth of water varies from 1-1.5 feet in most places and as the boat ambles peacefully along the channels, the birds come into focus. For the first timers, it appears as if there is atleast one bird for every square inch ! And each and every bird is deeply engrossed in one of the two main activities of life : searching for food and delving deep into philosophical thoughts with a full tummy.

And while you're busy straining your eyes to differentiate between a Godwit and a Ruff, you suddenly hear a flap of wings and turn around. A Purple Heron has just started its flight and you can't help but stare in awe at the sheer beauty of such a majestic creature with a wingspan that almost makes the Airbus A380 look tiny!

As your boat trudges along the marsh in its own rhythm, the guide points out several other species that catch his attention. The guides are well equipped with a pair of powerful binoculars and a Guide Book on the birds found in the subcontinent.






On a typical December afternoon, one can expect Northern Pintails in flocks, Black Winged Stilts, Garhwals, Northern Shoveller, Purple Herons, Goliath Herons, an extremely senile looking Grey Heron and countless other species. The best part is when you get to hear about their original habitat.

Some have traveled all the way from faraway lands like Siberia, Manash Sarobar in Tibet, Tundra regions etc. It is a testimonial of Nature's magic that every year they come all the way from their homeland to a tiny marsh in India, oblivious of the innumerable uncertainties and danger lurking behind every innocent flap of their wings.









We met these two Brahmini Ducks or Rudy Shell Ducks near twilight. They apparently had a fight and now were maintaining a strict LoC between their operations ! Our guide took us very close to the ducks and told us that they were always found in pairs.The male Brahmini Duck (to the left) has a characteristic band all along his neck. Drenched in the twilight, their orange plumage looked divine. And just as we were getting extremely close to them, they took notice and immediately flew off. They left behind some small ripples on the marshy waters and a piece of colorful memory.

It would be an understatement if we claimed that Mangalajodi is just a "birder's paradise". It appeals to everyone who is not afraid to be surprised by one of Nature's most innocent forms of life. It doesn't really matter whether you know all their names or even recognize one species from a very similar but a different one. All it asks of you is a little bit of your time and love. It requires you to be a silent audience to all their activities and eventually you start to feel a connection with them. You have seen them real close. You have heard their sounds. You know their story. And in a way you have found your freedom in between those wings that you keep hidden in your daily life. Yes, they have inspired you to taste the unknown. They have inspired you to come out of your comfort zone and explore the world. They have shown you what freedom tastes like in this chained world.

And yes. They have taught you how to be young, wild and free.