All around the world, children are taught primary colors (Red, Green and Blue) at a very young age. So young infact, some of them spend the rest of their lives mixing those basic colors and creating myriad shades from their dreams. If you were to take the most creative of those children and ask him/her to create the finest shades of blue on canvas, the result would be a crater lake atop 17500 feet nestled deep in the Himalayas.
This lake happens to be one of the most prized natural wonders of the northern state of Sikkim in India. Yes, it's the Gurudongmar Lake hidden away in the most treacherous region of North Sikkim.
The roads are non existent in North Sikkim and if you were looking for black top roads to drive on during your vacation, you can simply look elsewhere! However, if off roading is your 'thing' and you don't mind getting your vehicle deep inside slush, rocks and gravel, you will enjoy this drive like crazy!
During the peak season (April-May, October-November), hundreds of tourists visit this lake everyday. And yet, very few of them get to actually drive up there taming the dangerous terrain, risk it all out and finally soak in the sight of the blue waters in all its glory.
Read on, soldier for a virtual drive to one of the highest lakes in the world starting from one of the cities that is closest to the sea, the city of joy - Kolkata!
Logistics - Whenever you're venturing out towards the north or north-east of West Bengal, there are three potential routes from Kolkata.
- The first one takes the pot hole ridden, narrow NH-34.
- The second known as the Dalkhola Purnea route ventures into Bihar and then once again enters West Bengal at a later stage.
- The third and the most preferred route(Kolkata-Bardhaman-Kuli-Moregram-Farakka-Raiganj-Dhantola-Siliguri) goes to Bardhaman via the NH2 (better known as the Durgapur Expressway) and then takes a right, cuts right through Murshidabad, Malda, Uttar Dinajpur and then reaches Siliguri via the Botolbari-Dhantola route (erstwhile this small stretch of 79 kms was infamous for night time dacoit attacks). Nowadays, this entire route spanning 584 kms is perfectly safe to travel at night. Police checkposts are spread out evenly at approx 5-10 kms spacing and they regularly check the passing vehicles especially at the district border crossings.
Here's a snapshot of the same route -
There's no need to stop at Siliguri since it wastes one precious day and the real fun begins right after crossing Sevoke ! The Teesta river flows alongside you and takes you through its innumerable twists and turns on the mountain road as you slowly start gaining altitude. The temperature drops by a few degrees and very soon you find yourself crossing West Bengal - Sikkim border at Rangpo.
Right after crossing Rangpo, you will drive through lush green forests along the hill slope and pass by countless waterfalls, some with names while some without. Towards May-end and early June, these waterfalls become turbulent and can wash away roads, disrupting vital links between small towns. Landslides are very common during this time and tourists often find themselves stuck for one or two days. However, the Border Roads Organization & our Indian Army are doing a terrific job of maintaining roads in such a hostile terrain. Thanks to them, even the most gigantic boulders strewn on road make way for the easy flow of traffic.
The shortest road to Mangan (head quarters of the North district of Sikkim) from Rangpo takes you through a deserted mountainous road connecting the towns of Dikchu and Singtam. This road remains mostly outside the boundary of the normal tourist vehicles which ply from Gangtok to Lachen, thus ensuring minimum traffic jam. However, portions of this route falls under 'sinking' zone and this leads to sudden landslides.
Like this one over here :
Right after a landslide, the muddy paths become extremely slushy and the car starts to loose traction. A FWD car might face some problems especially during the uphill climbs on such rocky & slushy terrains, but it's not impossible. Sure there will be wheel spins, clutch burns & over revs but 9 times out of 10, you will emerge victorious with a wide grin on your face after clearing the obstacle!
If you're driving an AWD or a 4X4, you don't need to worry at all !
The path through a landslide zone is nothing but an off roader's dream. Here's a small sample shot -
If you're venturing out towards North Sikkim,you will find the last petrol pump at Mangan(known locally as 'Guddu's' pump). Tank up to the fullest incase you need to complete the entire circuit of Mangan-Lachen-Gurudongmar-Kala Patthar-Lachung-Yumthang-Zero Point-Katao-Mangan. This circuit is around 500+ kms long and your fuel efficiency would be pretty low, considering there will be mostly off-roads with the 1st and 2nd gears taking the major beating.
Permits - The single most important thing about a trip to restricted regions is the permit. Unfortunately North Sikkim falls under the Restricted/Protected Zone right after Toong(the first Checkpost) and you cannot travel without securing proper permits for the travellers & the vehicle. Permits can be obtained from an extremely helpful DM Office at Mangan provided you have all the documents with you. The permit office remains closed on weekends and on state holidays. Sometimes, they might not issue permits in case there are multiple landslides on the road towards Lachen/Lachung.
Personal documents required -
- 2 copies of Passport sized photographs
- Photo ID e.g. Voter ID, Aadhar Card
- Driving License (in case you are driving)
- Registration Certificate
- PUC certificate
- Road Tax Token
- Authorization Letter(in case the vehicle owner is absent)
Once you have duly filled in the permit form (obtained from the reception desk) and affixed the photographs, the ADM will sign & stamp on it. You need to make 7-8 copies of the same and keep it readily available for submissions at different check posts.
If you're driving from Kolkata, you should be really tired by now and in dire need of a nice & cozy place to put up for the night. Don't worry, you're in luck! You're just 4 kms away from a hidden gem of a location called Singhik which is famous for its stunning views of Mt.Kanchedzonga & birding as well. The Singhik Tourist Lodge is situated alongside the main road, perched on a cliff. The manager Mr.Tempa Lhendup is extremely shrewd and might charge excessive rates depending on the season. For bookings, please contact him at +91-9635839939.
Standard rates vary from Rs.1000-1200 per person inclusive of Breakfast, Lunch, Evening Snacks & Dinner. The food is not up to the mark, both in terms of quantity & quality. But the early morning views from the hotel's dining area and some of the balconies prove to be a blessing.
If you enjoy birding, you can hike up to the local monastery and discover a plethora of Himalayan birds.
The very next day, you pack up and depart for Lachen, a hamlet situated at 8500 feet above MSL.
You pass through two check posts (Toong & Lachen). It will be a short 40kms journey but often takes longer than 4 hours. Reason ? You will find yourself stopping numerous times to capture sights & sounds that catch your fancy.
There are plenty of hotels in Lachen. Most tourists pass through Lachen as merely a night stop. But it promises breathtaking views of the Lachen mountains and rare species of Himalayan birds, only if you have the time and eye!
If you walk 2-3 kms from the main Lachen village, you will find yourself engulfed deep inside a beautiful valley. North Sikkim is the wild child of Sikkim and with every passing corner, you will discover its ravishingly raw beauty.
Temperatures during May-June usually hover at around 17-18 degree Celsius during the day time and at night can drop to 7-9 degrees. In case you don't have a thermometer handy, the cold water stream from the faucet is a brilliant reminder of how low the mercury column can dip at night !
A good sleep is essential since the very next day, you will have to wake up at the break of dawn (4:30am and a shrieking alarm tone would be a good combination). The sleepy, quiet town of Lachen buzzes back to activity with the decades old Mahindra Max vehicles coughing up and starting with volumes of black soot & diesel smokes, hotel attendants rushing to every room with gracious amounts of hot, sugary tea at 5am.
Lachen means 'Big Pass' and there's no doubt why !
Most of the tourist vehicles start by 5:30 am and reach Thangu Valley checkpost by 7am. Enroute to Thangu, you drive through non existent roads and beautiful mountain passes, gazing up to the lofty high mountains and wish that you had known the names of those majestic peaks. Thangu is around 35kms from Lachen and in the accompaniment of clear skies, the drive transforms into magic.
Thangu Valley at 12000 feet is a beautiful portrait and you can't help but stop for a picture break.
Gaigong check post is the final check post right before the lake and the road deteriorates further. In the absence of tree line, the boulders frequently roll down slopes and hamper vehicle movement.
Cafe 15000 (the highest cafe in the world, operated by the Indian Army) is located in Gaigong and you need to taste the delicious veg momo (an unbeatable deal at 50 bucks for 8 pieces) & black coffee.
Gaigaong onwards, the road becomes hard to recognize for the next 4 kms. There's only rocks and boulders and gravel. You chart out your own path and drive forward keeping your vision fixed on the looming mountain top.
The entrance to the vast cold desert lies 4 km away from Gaigaong. From that point Gurudongmar is only 12 kms away. A black top highway races through the cold desert.
By this time you're well past 16000 feet and the thin air takes a toll on your car's engine. All the vehicles experience a noticeable power drop but the mesmerizing views of the cold desert seem to put you in a trance.
After 12 kms, you are greeted with a signboard ("Way to Gurudongmar Lake") pointing towards the right. There's a steep climb over three rolling hillocks till you reach the lake shore.
It's not just a regular lake shore. It's the highest lake in India and you're standing right beside it.
Breathe in. Breathe out. Yes. You did it !
It feels like you're in a magical land enveloped by sky high mountains and glaciers. All the legends that you have heard about this place seem to make sense. And with the first view of the lake, all the hardships that you had to endure for the last 3 days vanish into thin air. You start counting the different shades of blue waters but soon, you lose count as one shade mixes elegantly with the other leaving you breathless.
The low air density at 17857 feet above MSL can affect a human being in different ways. Some people feel nauseous while some settle into a deep slumber. All these symptoms indicate a lack of oxygen and should be treated at the earliest. Most tourist vehicles (equipped with portable oxygen cylinders) stay for a period of 10-15 minutes.
The trance takes a fraction of a moment to break and then you're brought back to reality. It's now time to bid goodbye to one of the most stunning crater lakes in the world and head back to the mortal world.
A small round pebble from the lake shore can serve as a souvenir for the times to come and will rekindle your spirit for adventures when you're frail and old.
You will look back and climb all those lofty ranges once again to reach the lake shore. And over there you will breathe for the very last time as you watch your entire life slowly dissolve into the blue depths of the lake.
The lake of life.
Special Mention - This trip would be incomplete without mentioning the team who made it possible.
That's us standing in front of the Singhik Tourist Lodge.
From L to R, Salil Uncle, Shobuj, Debashree Aunty, Ami, Ma and Baba.
Their indomitable spirit and energy throughout the trip helped in conquering the toughest terrains !
P.S. Thanks to Nirmalya da & Sandipan da from R.O.A.D (Revv On & Drive) group for furnishing us with valuable details regarding the permit process and their help with the initial planning.
