Diary 13: Rambha : Orissa’s Miniature Andamans

During some weekends when life feels a bit distant and you want to get closer to it, you need a quiet place that can listen to your rants patiently and offer comfort that will soothe your nerves. Rambha, perched in the northern tip of the largest brackish water lagoon in India, is exactly that kind of a place.

It sits right beside the Eastern Ghats highway on the Orissa – Vizag route and offers stunning glimpses towards the end of the drive. Located at a distance of approximately 600kms from Kolkata, Rambha qualifies for a pole position in the ‘top weekend destinations near Kolkata’ list. The roads leading to Rambha are butter smooth and it only takes around 8 hours to complete the drive.

Staying options are pretty much limited in Rambha. The best place to stay and experience its beauty is the resort run by the Orissa Govt Tourism Department, named ‘Panthaniwas’. Bookings can be made well in advance through their online portal. For travellers going to Vizag from Kolkata, Rambha is the ideal stop over destination.

Once, you’re in through the resort gates, you will be greeted with beautiful gardens and a paved road done neatly in bright red and yellow bricks, that takes you all the way down to the reception area. The air feels a bit moist on your lips and you can’t help but be intrigued by the nearness of the sea.

The beauty of Rambha becomes imminent as soon as you cross the last cottage of the property and walk along the wide, paved pier that stretches right out into the blissful blue lagoon. Lonely boats are tied to bamboo poles, swaying gently with the rhythm of the water. They seem to tell the story of the fishermen who went into the sea insearch of a living and never came back.

Your vision is guarded by a hill that supports varied shades of green thanks to the rich vegetation. You need to get on a boat in order to explore the blue stretch. The boatmen will normally give you a good deal if you bargain really well. A “package” that covers 4 islands at Rs.1200 is usually considered a great deal !

As the boat makes its way through the calm waters, the cool breeze lifts up your soul like magic. In the distance you can see a flock of ducks readying up for a quick take off. 

The boat crosses them and slowly ‘Breakfast Island’ draws near. As per the boatmen, a British Lord used to go upto that island every morning and have a round of classic English breakfast!

Next up is the Dinosaur island which gets its name from…yes! You guessed it correctly! The installation of a huge plastic dinosaur on the island has been a major setback for ornithologists and bird photographers because it scares away flocks of geese and other birds. However we were extremely lucky to spot a Brahminy Kite, gracefully perched on top of a dead tree branch.

Right next to the dinosaur island, you will find a collection of rocks that are partially covered by moss. They present an interesting contrast to the blue waters of the lagoon. If you stare at them for sometime, even they seem to bob up and down with the small waves. Peaceful hallucinations are ever so beautiful !

The tortoise island has an uncanny resemblance to a tortoise shell. From a distance, it appears like an actual tortoise with its face down inside the water. The boat usually stops at all these islands for you to get out and climb up the rocks and explore the island.

As the boat turns back towards the pier, you long for it to take a turn and go off into the narrow streak where the sea meets. It feels as if you are ready to answer the summons of the countless sailors calling out to you. They want you to live right there at the moment, getting drenched in the calm, blue waters. 

And you answer in the affirmative, once you're back in touch with life, which by now is a little moist with the Chilka waters and memories that flooded in with the sea and decided to stay  back.

That is Rambha, Mon Amour !

Diary 8 : Mangalajodi: Tales from the Moorland

Moorlands have always been an evocative landscape, inspiring countless artists to render them in a mystical perspective. Mangalajodi is no exception. It is one of the largest marshes in Eastern India, sitting at the northern top of the Chilka (Chilika) Lake in Orissa. Often tagged as the "Birder's Paradise", it plays a dutiful, sincere and a loving host to a staggering figure of 9 million avifauna (as per 2010 census) during the peak season ( November-January ). What makes it even more beautiful is it's backstory.

                      Moors or swamps are supposed to be haunted. Innumerable mentions of swamp monsters and evil spirits have frequented Children's Literature through ages. In case of Mangalajodi, these monsters and evil spirits came in the form of men, mostly searching for a livelihood in the marshes. These fishermen used to spread nets and capture the poor birds and sell their meat to the local restaurants and hotels. The sheer number of birds visiting the marshes each year made this livelihood even more enticing. And then one fine day an angel, again in the form of a human decided to change the fate of this marsh forever. His name was Nanda Kishore Bhujabal. He started a lifelong fight for the birds and after years of persuasion and pitfalls and struggles, his vision started slowly coming back to life. Together with the Royal Bank of Scotland and Indian Grameen Services, he proposed an alternative livelihood for the erstwhile poachers to turn into watchful protectors who would take pride in conserving Mother Nature's rich basket of feathers,beaks and shrill calls. These fishermen have now become full time watchmen keeping a silent vigil on anyone and everyone who might try to harm the avifauna. They serve as oarsmen and guides, taking tourists on boat rides through the marshes, pointing out the myriad varieties of birds and sharing valuable information about their life cycle.

                        Mangalajodi, with its fair share of migratory and resident birds lies near the NH16. It is located 80 kms away from Bhubaneshwar. Nearest airport is the Bhubhaneshwar airport. Adjacent railheads are Mukteshwar(Puri) and Balugaon. There are ample road signs all along the way so that it's very easy to spot. Staying options are limited to Mangalajodi Ecotourism Cottage and Godwit Eco Cottage. Both of them can be booked online. It's best to book atleast a month in advance during the peak season.

From the Mangalajodi Eco Tourism Cottage, a reddish gravel road runs for 2.5 km to the Jetty. The shrill voices of almost a million birds can be heard even before you have reached the jetty. Their sharp yet pleasant calls against a tranquil village background track offer a stark but a welcoming contrast. The only way to explore the vast stretches of the swamp is the locally made wooden boats that are propelled by the muscle power of the boatmen. The depth of water varies from 1-1.5 feet in most places and as the boat ambles peacefully along the channels, the birds come into focus. For the first timers, it appears as if there is atleast one bird for every square inch ! And each and every bird is deeply engrossed in one of the two main activities of life : searching for food and delving deep into philosophical thoughts with a full tummy.

And while you're busy straining your eyes to differentiate between a Godwit and a Ruff, you suddenly hear a flap of wings and turn around. A Purple Heron has just started its flight and you can't help but stare in awe at the sheer beauty of such a majestic creature with a wingspan that almost makes the Airbus A380 look tiny!

As your boat trudges along the marsh in its own rhythm, the guide points out several other species that catch his attention. The guides are well equipped with a pair of powerful binoculars and a Guide Book on the birds found in the subcontinent.






On a typical December afternoon, one can expect Northern Pintails in flocks, Black Winged Stilts, Garhwals, Northern Shoveller, Purple Herons, Goliath Herons, an extremely senile looking Grey Heron and countless other species. The best part is when you get to hear about their original habitat.

Some have traveled all the way from faraway lands like Siberia, Manash Sarobar in Tibet, Tundra regions etc. It is a testimonial of Nature's magic that every year they come all the way from their homeland to a tiny marsh in India, oblivious of the innumerable uncertainties and danger lurking behind every innocent flap of their wings.









We met these two Brahmini Ducks or Rudy Shell Ducks near twilight. They apparently had a fight and now were maintaining a strict LoC between their operations ! Our guide took us very close to the ducks and told us that they were always found in pairs.The male Brahmini Duck (to the left) has a characteristic band all along his neck. Drenched in the twilight, their orange plumage looked divine. And just as we were getting extremely close to them, they took notice and immediately flew off. They left behind some small ripples on the marshy waters and a piece of colorful memory.

It would be an understatement if we claimed that Mangalajodi is just a "birder's paradise". It appeals to everyone who is not afraid to be surprised by one of Nature's most innocent forms of life. It doesn't really matter whether you know all their names or even recognize one species from a very similar but a different one. All it asks of you is a little bit of your time and love. It requires you to be a silent audience to all their activities and eventually you start to feel a connection with them. You have seen them real close. You have heard their sounds. You know their story. And in a way you have found your freedom in between those wings that you keep hidden in your daily life. Yes, they have inspired you to taste the unknown. They have inspired you to come out of your comfort zone and explore the world. They have shown you what freedom tastes like in this chained world.

And yes. They have taught you how to be young, wild and free.

Diary 5 : Sunderbans , An Alternative Outlook

"...the mother and child reunion
is only a motion away..."

The Sunderbans is perhaps the most dynamic land in all of India. Sculpted and remodelled every instant by a low tide and a higher one, it presents it's flora and fauna in a most remarkable way. For it is the largest tidal halophytic mangrove forest on Earth. And coincidentally it hosts one of Nature's most magnificent beasts - The Royal Bengal Tiger. The ever elusive big cat lends a momentary glimpse only to a limited few.Sunderbans is the most difficult place to spot one which in turn makes it a sort of challenge for tourists. And in pursuit of this challenge a large number of motorised boats traverse through the saline waters for 12 hours a day, diligently stopping at watch towers. And with each failed attempt at spotting a tiger, frustration follows close behind and it soon invites a plethora of comments from the tourists which are best left unsaid. This primarily happens because the Sunderbans has been symbolized, since the distant past, by Panthera Tigris which is quite misleading.  If you're hoping to catch a glimpse of the four legged beast, then this blog will disappoint you terribly ! Because the Royal Bengal Tiger is only a tiny fraction of all that it has to offer. And this blog is about the remaining greater fraction which makes up the 'Tide Country' complete with it's own set of beliefs, ideals, people, and most importantly its emotions.

The 'Tide Country'

Sunderbans can be accessed easily from Kolkata. Nearest railhead is Canning. Kolkata Airport is the closest airport, incase you are planning to fly. Detailed transit routes are attached alongwith  the vital stats of the Sunderbans. Travel time from Kolkata varies from 4 to 5 hours.

Now that you have finally reached the edge of the huge mangrove forest, you are desperate to find a nice place to stay. There are plenty of staying options available at Pakhirala, Gosaba. But all these hotels and resorts are situated in the buffer zone of the forest. In the core zone there is only one option – the Sajnekhali Tourist Lodge ( maintained by WBTDCL ). You will have to take a ferry across the river from Pakhirala to reach the lodge gate. The place is infested with Rhesus monkeys. They are practically everywhere waiting to pounce on whatever food materials you might be having! So it’s better to put your food 'undercover' for sometime. Checking in is a breeze thanks to the ever competent lodge staffs. Once you’re out in the balcony you will get your first feel of the Sunderbans. The forest surrounds the lodge compound on two sides. Territories are marked out clearly by a green colored iron fence that is almost 10 feet in height. Just across the fence, survival takes a new meaning and life is at all time risk. 

Of Wooded

Melancholia

The Sajnekhali Tourist Lodge and the Forest Department have set up some pools inside the compound dedicated to the nurturing of some reptiles like a giant salt water crocodile, turtles and water monitors. There is also a Mangrove Interpretation Centre inside Sajnekhali Island which aims at spreading awareness about tigers and their habitat, the future life of the mangrove forest, threats to its sustenance, etc.

Sunny Spike Up !

'Monitor'ing the Coast !

Of Patterns and Symmetry.

                  
On the first day of your trip , there is really not much exploring to be done because by the time you will reach Sajnekhali, it will be too late to explore any other island.Atmost you can visit "PakhirChor" in a rented ferry during the lazy afternoons for birdwatching.

A collage of some of the local birds spotted.You might have a better luck next time !

The actual trip begins next morning.

In Line. On Line.

The only way to get in touch with the mangrove forest is the motorised boat. You climb onto one and immediately get drowned in the low humdrum of the six cylinder engine. As the boat leaves the jetty, the engine hums to the tune that seems offbeat to the very core. A few more hours later,the sound blends in with your subconscious.

Inner Peace

Tagged Along.Alone.

A Wider Fit.

From the very first moment, you try to sink in the sheer volume of the saline waters all around you. They slowly seep into your mind and plant the seeds of the mangrove trees which stitch the entire ecosystem, together around here. It's due to them that in this 'tide country', some of the larger islands are still in existence. And again, it's only due to them that the soil fights till it's last breath before uniting finally with the vast stretches of moist memories. Yes, they are the real architects of the 'tide country'.Meet the Mangroves !

Survival.

Red Specks of Crabs.

Piercing Shadows.

The vast saline stretches of water and the mangroves on the shorelines will be your compatriots in this part of the ‘tide country’. The three layered greens and the muddy waters of the rivers, together with a clear blue sky present a most contrasting picture. It magically heals the eyes which are tired from searching the concrete jungle for the signs of the living. Meanwhile a Greater Egret happens to stand like a lone sentry guarding the tidal creeks and thankfully it poses for a moment in time.   

The Lone Egret.

Your boat sails on, venturing further into narrower rivers that sing along with the tide and the ebb. The first stop is the Dobanki Watchtower. Famous for it’s canopy walk, it’s your first chance to come close to the forest and actually feel it’s pulse through the wired fencing, constructed all along the path.

The Canopy Walk.

All the watchtowers feature a sweet water pond which are artificially dug to attract the wild for a drink. Most of the animal spottings occur around these ponds especially during the twilight. You have reached Dobanki at mid-day but fortunately a mother and a child deer along with an Egret are present to raise your spirits !

The 'Right Angle'.

Thirst.

After spending about an hour or so at the Dobanki Watchtower, it’s now time to move on to the next one on the itinerary : Sudhyanyakhali Watchtower. This will again be a journey through the muddy ripples of time sidelined by the greens. On this stretch you will pass through a place called ‘Panchamukhani’. Translated into Bengali it means ‘five mouths’. It is the conjunction of five rivers. And yeah, the result is indeed terrific. When your boat is somewhere near the middle of the meeting point, you cannot practically make out the horizon. Because the sky has blended into the rivers and everything else is so infinitesimally tiny! It’s looks more like a huge ocean than a confluence of five rivers! See it for yourself!

Far.

Near.

And Away.

Past the Confluence, you're again back on track. The waters infront, all lead to the next watchtower !

Sudhanyakhali Watchtower is a special one because it has recorded the maximum number of tiger spotting among all the others ! This is why it is also the most crowded watchtower in Sunderbans ! The best time to visit it will be during the twilight zone. Because probability of catching a glimpse of the big cat increases during this period because at the end of the day, it is expected that His Royalty will come for a ‘sweet drink’ in order to quench his thirst after a hearty lunch! The Forest Department folks have done a brilliant work here. They have created four Corridors or Passages through by clearing out sections of the forest. Thanks to these corridors, you can easily spot any animal  which is trying to cross it. And this has resulted in a record number of game-spotting !

Corridors.

A family of spotted deer and wild boars are here to slurp up for the night ahead. The sweet water pond behaves like a clear mirror according to the mood swings of the setting sun. And each reflection counts in the wild.

The real and the image.

The Stare.

Mirroring Patterns.

Doe-Eyed.

There are times in life when everything seems magical.Like the backdrop of the following two pictures. It seems like it has been lifted straight out of a Chronicles of Narnia book. It's really wonderful that the best magic in this world is hidden inside nature in a subtle way. And sometimes it just shines through.

 Bidding adieu to Sudhyanyakhali. A last look at the place.

After Sudhyanyakhali, it’s time to retrace your way back to Sajnekhali island. The setting sun looks absolutely stunning. A penetrating ruddy circle which is as fierce as the burning embers of a fire which is all consuming.

On your way back home, you cannot help but be mesmerized by the feel of the mangrove islands. Life for each and every other organism is indeed difficult. And you feel pity for them all. Yes, starting from the tigers who ‘burn bright’, even after facing countless threats from Man and Nature alike to the spotted deer which is still unaware of the danger lurking inside the next shadow. From the innumerable fishermen and  honey-collectors who venture into the shallowly depths of the forest in search of a dangerous livelihood, to the rare Gangetic Dolphins which are on the brink of extinction. You learn to feel for all of them as you leave behind a trail of white ripples on the estuarine waters.

The entire length and breadth of the Sunderbans revolve around a single abstract thing : Faith. It is faith which promises the Royal Bengal Tiger of a sumptuous meal. It is the same faith with which a young deer cub  ventures for the first time beyond it’s mother’s encapsulating protective ring. And it’s again faith which guides the fishermen and the honey-collectors to the nameless, countless creeks where life and death stage a one-act play every moment.

Here's to that same old faith which keeps the ebb and the tide turning.

Faith.