Monday, June 17, 2019

Diary 14: Gurudongmar Lake : Self drive to the highest lake of India




                        All around the world, children are taught primary colors (Red, Green and Blue) at a very young age. So young infact, some of them spend the rest of their lives mixing those basic colors and creating myriad shades from their dreams. If you were to take the most creative of those children and ask him/her to create the finest shades of blue on canvas, the result would be a crater lake atop 17500 feet nestled deep in the Himalayas.


This lake happens to be one of the most prized natural wonders of the northern state of Sikkim in India. Yes, it's the Gurudongmar Lake hidden away in the most treacherous region of North Sikkim.
The roads are non existent in North Sikkim and if you were looking for black top roads to drive on during your vacation, you can simply look elsewhere! However, if off roading is your 'thing' and you don't mind getting your vehicle deep inside slush, rocks and gravel, you will enjoy this drive like crazy!


                       During the peak season (April-May, October-November), hundreds of tourists visit this lake everyday. And yet, very few of them get to actually drive up there taming the dangerous terrain, risk it all out and finally soak in the sight of the blue waters in all its glory.
Read on, soldier for a virtual drive to one of the highest lakes in the world starting from one of the cities that is closest to the sea, the city of joy - Kolkata!

Logistics - Whenever you're venturing out towards the north or north-east of West Bengal, there are three potential routes from Kolkata.

  • The first one takes the pot hole ridden, narrow NH-34. 
  • The second known as the Dalkhola Purnea route ventures into Bihar and then once again enters West Bengal at a later stage. 
  • The third and the most preferred route(Kolkata-Bardhaman-Kuli-Moregram-Farakka-Raiganj-Dhantola-Siliguri) goes to Bardhaman via the NH2 (better known as the Durgapur Expressway) and then takes a right, cuts right through Murshidabad, Malda, Uttar Dinajpur and then reaches Siliguri via the Botolbari-Dhantola route (erstwhile this small stretch of 79 kms was infamous for night time dacoit attacks). Nowadays, this entire route spanning 584 kms is perfectly safe to travel at night. Police checkposts are spread out evenly at approx 5-10 kms spacing and they regularly check the passing vehicles especially at the district border crossings.
          It's actually preferable to start from Kolkata at 5-6pm, drive throughout the night and reach Siliguri at 6-7 am with a few stops. At night there's minimum chance of stray animals/cattle & villagers suddenly spawning on the road and traffic is also sparse. The road condition is good throughout the journey albeit a few speed breakers (our beloved 'bumpers') occurring in the Bardhama-Moregram stretch and later in the Botolbari-Dalkhola stretch. Proper Dhaba options for dinner are limited to Shaktigarh(Aahar Restaurant), Futishanko & Moregram (adjacent to BPCL Petrol Pump).

Here's a snapshot of the same route -



There's no need to stop at Siliguri since it wastes one precious day and the real fun begins right after crossing Sevoke ! The Teesta river flows alongside you and takes you through its innumerable twists and turns on the mountain road as you slowly start gaining altitude. The temperature drops by a few degrees and very soon you find yourself crossing West Bengal - Sikkim border at Rangpo.

Right after crossing Rangpo, you will drive through lush green forests along the hill slope and pass by countless waterfalls, some with names while some without. Towards May-end and early June, these waterfalls become turbulent and can wash away roads, disrupting vital links between small towns. Landslides are very common during this time and tourists often find themselves stuck for one or two days. However, the Border Roads Organization & our Indian Army are doing a terrific job of maintaining roads in such a hostile terrain. Thanks to them, even the most gigantic boulders strewn on road make way for the easy flow of traffic.



The shortest road to Mangan (head quarters of the North district of Sikkim) from Rangpo takes you through a deserted mountainous road connecting the towns of Dikchu and Singtam. This road remains mostly outside the boundary of the normal tourist vehicles which ply from Gangtok to Lachen, thus ensuring minimum traffic jam. However, portions of this route falls under 'sinking' zone and this leads to sudden landslides. 
Like this one over here :


Right after a landslide, the muddy paths become extremely slushy and the car starts to loose traction. A FWD car might face some problems especially during the uphill climbs on such rocky & slushy terrains, but it's not impossible. Sure there will be wheel spins, clutch burns & over revs but 9 times out of 10, you will emerge victorious with a wide grin on your face after clearing the obstacle!
If you're driving an AWD or a 4X4, you don't need to worry at all !

The path through a landslide zone is nothing but an off roader's dream. Here's a small sample shot -



If you're venturing out towards North Sikkim,you will find the last petrol pump at Mangan(known locally as 'Guddu's' pump). Tank up to the fullest incase you need to complete the entire circuit of Mangan-Lachen-Gurudongmar-Kala Patthar-Lachung-Yumthang-Zero Point-Katao-Mangan. This circuit is around 500+ kms long and your fuel efficiency would be pretty low, considering there will be mostly off-roads with the 1st and 2nd gears taking the major beating.

Permits - The single most important thing about a trip to restricted regions is the permit. Unfortunately North Sikkim falls under the Restricted/Protected Zone right after Toong(the first Checkpost) and you cannot travel without securing proper permits for the travellers & the vehicle. Permits can be obtained from an extremely helpful DM Office at Mangan provided you have all the documents with you. The permit office remains closed on weekends and on state holidays. Sometimes, they might not issue permits in case there are multiple landslides on the road towards Lachen/Lachung.

Personal documents required -
  • 2 copies of Passport sized photographs
  • Photo ID e.g. Voter ID, Aadhar Card
  • Driving License (in case you are driving)
Vehicle documents required -
  • Registration Certificate
  • PUC certificate
  • Road Tax Token
  • Authorization Letter(in case the vehicle owner is absent)
Once you have duly filled in the permit form (obtained from the reception desk) and affixed the photographs, the ADM will sign & stamp on it. You need to make 7-8 copies of the same and keep it readily available for submissions at different check posts.

If you're driving from Kolkata, you should be really tired by now and in dire need of a nice & cozy place to put up for the night. Don't worry, you're in luck! You're just 4 kms away from a hidden gem of a location called Singhik which is famous for its stunning views of Mt.Kanchedzonga & birding as well. The Singhik Tourist Lodge is situated alongside the main road, perched on a cliff. The manager Mr.Tempa Lhendup is extremely shrewd and might charge excessive rates depending on the season. For bookings, please contact him at  +91-9635839939.




Standard rates vary from Rs.1000-1200 per person inclusive of Breakfast, Lunch, Evening Snacks & Dinner. The food is not up to the mark, both in terms of quantity & quality. But the early morning views from the hotel's dining area and some of the balconies prove to be a blessing.








If you enjoy birding, you can hike up to the local monastery and discover a plethora of Himalayan birds.


The very next day, you pack up and depart for Lachen, a hamlet situated at 8500 feet above MSL.
You pass through two check posts (Toong & Lachen). It will be a short 40kms journey but often takes longer than 4 hours. Reason ? You will find yourself stopping numerous times to capture sights & sounds that catch your fancy.



    

There are plenty of hotels in Lachen. Most tourists pass through Lachen as merely a night stop. But it promises breathtaking views of the Lachen mountains and rare species of Himalayan birds, only if you have the time and eye!


If you walk 2-3 kms from the main Lachen village, you will find yourself engulfed deep inside a beautiful valley. North Sikkim is the wild child of Sikkim and with every passing corner, you will discover its ravishingly raw beauty.





    



Temperatures during May-June usually hover at around 17-18 degree Celsius during the day time and at night can drop to 7-9 degrees. In case you don't have a thermometer handy, the cold water stream from the faucet is a brilliant reminder of how low the mercury column can dip at night !

A good sleep is essential since the very next day, you will have to wake up at the break of dawn (4:30am and a shrieking alarm tone would be a good combination). The sleepy, quiet town of Lachen buzzes back to activity with the decades old Mahindra Max vehicles coughing up and starting with volumes of black soot & diesel smokes, hotel attendants rushing to every room with gracious amounts of hot, sugary tea at 5am. 

Lachen means 'Big Pass' and there's no doubt why !



Most of the tourist vehicles start by 5:30 am and reach Thangu Valley checkpost by 7am. Enroute to Thangu, you drive through non existent roads and beautiful mountain passes, gazing up to the lofty high mountains and wish that you had known the names of those majestic peaks. Thangu is around 35kms from Lachen and in the accompaniment of clear skies, the drive transforms into magic.




Thangu Valley at 12000 feet is a beautiful portrait and you can't help but stop for a picture break.




Gaigong check post is the final check post right before the lake and the road deteriorates further. In the absence of tree line, the boulders frequently roll down slopes and hamper vehicle movement.

Cafe 15000 (the highest cafe in the world, operated by the Indian Army) is located in Gaigong and you need to taste the delicious veg momo (an unbeatable deal at 50 bucks for 8 pieces) & black coffee.



Gaigaong onwards, the road becomes hard to recognize for the next 4 kms. There's only rocks and boulders and gravel. You chart out your own path and drive forward keeping your vision fixed on the looming mountain top.


The entrance to the vast cold desert lies 4 km away from Gaigaong. From that point Gurudongmar is only 12 kms away. A black top highway races through the cold desert. 



By this time you're well past 16000 feet and the thin air takes a toll on your car's engine. All the vehicles experience a noticeable power drop but the mesmerizing views of the cold desert seem to put you in a trance.


After 12 kms, you are greeted with a signboard ("Way to Gurudongmar Lake") pointing towards the right. There's a steep climb over three rolling hillocks till you reach the lake shore.

It's not just a regular lake shore. It's the highest lake in India and  you're standing right beside it. 

Breathe in. Breathe out. Yes. You did it !


It feels like you're in a magical land enveloped by sky high mountains and glaciers. All the legends that you have heard about this place seem to make sense. And with the first view of the lake, all the hardships that you had to endure for the last 3 days vanish into thin air. You start counting the different shades of blue waters but soon, you lose count as one shade mixes elegantly with the other leaving you breathless.




The low air density at 17857 feet above MSL can affect a human being in different ways. Some people feel nauseous while some settle into a deep slumber. All these symptoms indicate a lack of oxygen and should be treated at the earliest. Most tourist vehicles (equipped with portable oxygen cylinders) stay for a period of 10-15 minutes. 

The trance takes a fraction of a moment to break and then you're brought back to reality. It's now time to bid goodbye to one of the most stunning crater lakes in the world and head back to the mortal world. 

A small round pebble from the lake shore can serve as a souvenir for the times to come and will rekindle your spirit for adventures when you're frail and old. 
You will look back and climb all those lofty ranges once again to reach the lake shore. And over there you will breathe for the very last time as you watch your entire life slowly dissolve into the blue depths of the lake. 


The lake of life.

Special Mention - This trip would be incomplete without mentioning the team who made it possible.


That's us standing in front of the Singhik Tourist Lodge.
From L to R, Salil Uncle, Shobuj, Debashree Aunty, Ami, Ma and Baba.
Their indomitable spirit and energy throughout the trip helped in conquering the toughest terrains !

P.S. Thanks to Nirmalya da & Sandipan da from R.O.A.D (Revv On & Drive) group for furnishing us with valuable details regarding the permit process and their help with the initial planning.

Sunday, March 25, 2018

Diary 13: Rambha : Orissa’s Miniature Andamans



During some weekends when life feels a bit distant and you want to get closer to it, you need a quiet place that can listen to your rants patiently and offer comfort that will soothe your nerves. Rambha, perched in the northern tip of the largest brackish water lagoon in India, is exactly that kind of a place.


It sits right beside the Eastern Ghats highway on the Orissa – Vizag route and offers stunning glimpses towards the end of the drive. Located at a distance of approximately 600kms from Kolkata, Rambha qualifies for a pole position in the ‘top weekend destinations near Kolkata’ list. The roads leading to Rambha are butter smooth and it only takes around 8 hours to complete the drive.


Staying options are pretty much limited in Rambha. The best place to stay and experience its beauty is the resort run by the Orissa Govt Tourism Department, named ‘Panthaniwas’. Bookings can be made well in advance through their online portal. For travellers going to Vizag from Kolkata, Rambha is the ideal stop over destination.


Once, you’re in through the resort gates, you will be greeted with beautiful gardens and a paved road done neatly in bright red and yellow bricks, that takes you all the way down to the reception area. The air feels a bit moist on your lips and you can’t help but be intrigued by the nearness of the sea.


The beauty of Rambha becomes imminent as soon as you cross the last cottage of the property and walk along the wide, paved pier that stretches right out into the blissful blue lagoon. Lonely boats are tied to bamboo poles, swaying gently with the rhythm of the water. They seem to tell the story of the fishermen who went into the sea insearch of a living and never came back.


Your vision is guarded by a hill that supports varied shades of green thanks to the rich vegetation. You need to get on a boat in order to explore the blue stretch. The boatmen will normally give you a good deal if you bargain really well. A “package” that covers 4 islands at Rs.1200 is usually considered a great deal !


As the boat makes its way through the calm waters, the cool breeze lifts up your soul like magic. In the distance you can see a flock of ducks readying up for a quick take off. 



The boat crosses them and slowly ‘Breakfast Island’ draws near. As per the boatmen, a British Lord used to go upto that island every morning and have a round of classic English breakfast!



Next up is the Dinosaur island which gets its name from…yes! You guessed it correctly! The installation of a huge plastic dinosaur on the island has been a major setback for ornithologists and bird photographers because it scares away flocks of geese and other birds. However we were extremely lucky to spot a Brahminy Kite, gracefully perched on top of a dead tree branch.




Right next to the dinosaur island, you will find a collection of rocks that are partially covered by moss. They present an interesting contrast to the blue waters of the lagoon. If you stare at them for sometime, even they seem to bob up and down with the small waves. Peaceful hallucinations are ever so beautiful !


The tortoise island has an uncanny resemblance to a tortoise shell. From a distance, it appears like an actual tortoise with its face down inside the water. The boat usually stops at all these islands for you to get out and climb up the rocks and explore the island.


As the boat turns back towards the pier, you long for it to take a turn and go off into the narrow streak where the sea meets. It feels as if you are ready to answer the summons of the countless sailors calling out to you. They want you to live right there at the moment, getting drenched in the calm, blue waters. 


And you answer in the affirmative, once you're back in touch with life, which by now is a little moist with the Chilka waters and memories that flooded in with the sea and decided to stay  back.
That is Rambha, Mon Amour !