Tuesday, December 19, 2017

Diary 10 : Grand Canyon of West Bengal : Gangani


                        If you were to glimpse at the picture above , maybe even for a split second, you would have been transported thousands of kilometers away to the Grand Canyon of USA. And once there, you could wish to stay and marvel at one of nature's finest masterpieces ever created. Or else, you could come back to reality and witness a similar land form, closer home. For those returning back, Gangani, tucked away in the Garhbeta region of West Midnapore district of West Bengal, can happily satiate your wanderlust.





Once infamous for Maoist activities, the entire region has been off the tourists' map for the past decade. Lately most of their activities have ceased and slowly, it is on its way to becoming one of most preferred weekend destinations near Kolkata. Located approximately 180kms away from Kolkata, Gangani, till date remains one of West Bengal's best hidden jewels, just waiting there to be explored.

























































































































































































































































Winter is probably the best season to get lost in the canyons. And if you are lucky enough to get caught in a slight December(you can hope for a depression) drizzle, the greenery shrouding the red earth structures present a sight to behold. The earth is visible in different hues of red, which accentuate the presence of erosion. It feels as if you can travel way back in time and witness the erosion by a mighty river(Silabati), aided by the howling winds.



              
                       This beautiful canyon has stood the test of time. It finds place in one of the greatest epics : The Mahabharata. As the legend goes, this entire land was under the rule of a fierce monster named 'Bakasura'. ;Bheem', our protagonist had slain 'Bakasura' and freed the poor villagers from his evil clutches. Epics and history don't always go hand in hand. Sometimes there are conflicts about the origins of a particular place. For instance, once Siharuddin Bugrasah, the son of Samaduddin Firoj Shah, the erstwhile ruler of Bengal had occupied this area. Hence, this was named Bagri after him. 
                       
                       A regular tourist won't get into a conflict. Instead he would rather conclude that both 'Bakasura' and Siharuddin had fantastic tastes since they both occupied such a marvelous landscape and ruled over it!




                       If it's an overcast day, and her only grandchild has skipped school to stay with her and their two cows, you can hope to meet this old woman. She is as ancient as the land itself and she will be happy to enthrall you with tales of 'Bakasura' and 'Bheem'. Those stories might induce laughter and disbelief in us, encapsulated within our city walls.But if you decided to give a little time to the canyon growing on you, visualizing the battle scenes will be child's play.



                      
                       Here's her grandchild and that's his idea of bunking school. His favorite past time ? Weaving stories around the bends of the river interlaced with the steep gorge.



                       
                       The beauty of Gangani lies in it's ability to camouflage itself well with the surrounding hills and hillocks. In some angles, it feels as if the canyon goes on endlessly, merging with the horizon. The greenery complements the Red-Yellow soil combination of the canyon walls turning it into a delight for the eyes.




                      The whole landscape manages to evoke a sense of yearning deep inside one's mind. As you try hard to look back in time in your quest to trace the origin of such a magical place, you are left intrigued by the past. And all the forces of erosion and creation join hands to paint a picture of a long forgotten world. A world which you long to be a part of. A world where freedom had no boundaries. And today, you can't help but stand mesmerized by the sheer grandeur of the canyon, bathed in the kind of an afterglow, we used to trust, back in our childhood. 




P.S. Here's a tribute to my amazing team, without whose support, Gangani wouldn't have been ticked off from my bucket list.


L-R : Me, Somok Da, Santanu Da, Aritra and Nilabrata. (We appear tiny against the facade of 'Bakasura's Cave')

P.P.S We achieved quite a feat that day by covering 450 kms through rain, dirt, red soil and asphalt on our beloved motorcycles. Kudos to the men and their machines !


Sunday, February 5, 2017

Diary 9 : Bhetnai (Vetnai) : Black Buck's Kindergarten


Imagine a hot dreary summer day with dry, cracked Earth and the last droplets of water in the atmosphere vanishing right infront of your eyes. Your throat is parched and you crave for a drop of the “liquid life”. You are almost at the edge of life and death and it so appears that the judgement is solely dependent upon the Rain God’s mercy. Exactly in this state you get to catch a glimpse of a majestic four legged creature with a shiny black coat and magnificent horns. And as soon as you spot it, a drizzle starts and it soon transforms into a beautiful rainfall. Completely dazed and surprised you immediately tag the creature as “ God’s messenger” and build a bond with him. He had saved your life and in return you must swear to protect him forever. 


Bhetnai (Vetnai or Vetnoi), a quaint hamlet in Orissa’s Ganjam district has played host to one of the most elegant Nature’s gifts to mankind : The Indian Antelope or the Black Buck since eternity. No one knows how exactly they started blossoming in those grasslands all of a sudden. And like most unknown “objects”, local people have developed a legend through word of mouth. This being passed onto generations has managed to build a small army of 15 men from the village who have dedicated their lives for the protection of these wonderful antelopes. Welcome to another treasure trove of Orissa ! The Kindergarten of the Black Bucks ! 


Bhetnai or Vetnai is located at the cradle of the Eastern Ghats. It's a 1.5 hour journey from Balugaon, the nearest railhead. One must plan a day trip to this place because there aren't any places to stay at Bhetnai. Accomodation options are plenty at Balugaon. The road is in good condition and directions  are given in English (unlike most places in Orissa) . There are plenty of picturesque locations to cool off the car's engine and sink in the melancholic Eastern Ghats hills. 





As soon as you get near to the Aska Sugar Factory, the whole landscape undergoes a dramatic change. Bluish mounds start to rise close to the horizon and the sky takes on a cheerful tone. 



The beauty of Bhetnai lies in its sheer camouflaging ability to disguise itself as a small village and the Black Buck's playground simultaneously. People in this village share their lives with these creatures weaving a fairy tale like existence. At first when you park your car at Nature's Parking Lot and try to scan the horizon for the antelopes, you are terribly disappointed because you can't spot any of them.


Nature's Parking Lot !
And then, as soon as your guide starts to point out the Black Bucks, your eyes light up. You see a bright black speck sprinting across the horizon. It takes a little time to adjust your vision in the broad daylight but you're delighted to see scores of them playing in those dry grasslands.







And all this while, you have kept really quiet so as to protect the tranquility of this place. But it's not enough. These beautiful creatures are extremely shy and as soon as you inch closer to them, they start to recede. There's a bright white patch at their rear portion and it looks amazing to see a team of Black Bucks ambling back towards their nest at the foothills of the Eastern Ghats.  



 
These majestic animals undergo a lot of changes in their circle of life. When they are born they resemble tiny deer cubs. As they grow older, males develop a stunning black coat that gets darker with age. Females are brownish in colour. If you're lucky enough, you might get to spot the oldest of the herd ! He looks like this gentleman in the background !




It feels magical to see their entire life being played out infront of your eyes as you observe them from close quarters. The highly energetic kids, the senile grandpas and the grandmas, the midlife-crisis-fighting mamas and the papas engaged in banter and an occasional loner all play their part diligently. They all live together under the same blue sky sharing the same grassland, calling it their very own. Just like a poet's dream. Lennon's words come true once again. 
   
                                                     "  Imagine there's no heaven
                                                             It's easy if you try
                                                              No hell below us
                                                             Above us only sky
                                                          Imagine all the people
                                                               Living for today   "



And in a quiet little hamlet, the circle of life goes on with the passing wind, oblivious of all the perils that threaten the very existence of mankind. They are happy. And it's infectious. There's this smile that refuses to leave your lips long after you have seen the last of them recede back into the horizon.
Inner Peace at last !