Diary 13: Rambha : Orissa’s Miniature Andamans

During some weekends when life feels a bit distant and you want to get closer to it, you need a quiet place that can listen to your rants patiently and offer comfort that will soothe your nerves. Rambha, perched in the northern tip of the largest brackish water lagoon in India, is exactly that kind of a place.

It sits right beside the Eastern Ghats highway on the Orissa – Vizag route and offers stunning glimpses towards the end of the drive. Located at a distance of approximately 600kms from Kolkata, Rambha qualifies for a pole position in the ‘top weekend destinations near Kolkata’ list. The roads leading to Rambha are butter smooth and it only takes around 8 hours to complete the drive.

Staying options are pretty much limited in Rambha. The best place to stay and experience its beauty is the resort run by the Orissa Govt Tourism Department, named ‘Panthaniwas’. Bookings can be made well in advance through their online portal. For travellers going to Vizag from Kolkata, Rambha is the ideal stop over destination.

Once, you’re in through the resort gates, you will be greeted with beautiful gardens and a paved road done neatly in bright red and yellow bricks, that takes you all the way down to the reception area. The air feels a bit moist on your lips and you can’t help but be intrigued by the nearness of the sea.

The beauty of Rambha becomes imminent as soon as you cross the last cottage of the property and walk along the wide, paved pier that stretches right out into the blissful blue lagoon. Lonely boats are tied to bamboo poles, swaying gently with the rhythm of the water. They seem to tell the story of the fishermen who went into the sea insearch of a living and never came back.

Your vision is guarded by a hill that supports varied shades of green thanks to the rich vegetation. You need to get on a boat in order to explore the blue stretch. The boatmen will normally give you a good deal if you bargain really well. A “package” that covers 4 islands at Rs.1200 is usually considered a great deal !

As the boat makes its way through the calm waters, the cool breeze lifts up your soul like magic. In the distance you can see a flock of ducks readying up for a quick take off. 

The boat crosses them and slowly ‘Breakfast Island’ draws near. As per the boatmen, a British Lord used to go upto that island every morning and have a round of classic English breakfast!

Next up is the Dinosaur island which gets its name from…yes! You guessed it correctly! The installation of a huge plastic dinosaur on the island has been a major setback for ornithologists and bird photographers because it scares away flocks of geese and other birds. However we were extremely lucky to spot a Brahminy Kite, gracefully perched on top of a dead tree branch.

Right next to the dinosaur island, you will find a collection of rocks that are partially covered by moss. They present an interesting contrast to the blue waters of the lagoon. If you stare at them for sometime, even they seem to bob up and down with the small waves. Peaceful hallucinations are ever so beautiful !

The tortoise island has an uncanny resemblance to a tortoise shell. From a distance, it appears like an actual tortoise with its face down inside the water. The boat usually stops at all these islands for you to get out and climb up the rocks and explore the island.

As the boat turns back towards the pier, you long for it to take a turn and go off into the narrow streak where the sea meets. It feels as if you are ready to answer the summons of the countless sailors calling out to you. They want you to live right there at the moment, getting drenched in the calm, blue waters. 

And you answer in the affirmative, once you're back in touch with life, which by now is a little moist with the Chilka waters and memories that flooded in with the sea and decided to stay  back.

That is Rambha, Mon Amour !

Diary 12: Purbasthali : The love for winged species and marshes

                                    Ox-bow lakes have always managed to occupy a large portion of our Geography syllabi way back in our school days. It’s true that the geography text books never quite induced the magic associated with them. And maybe that’s why when Purbasthali welcomes you with her extensive wetlands, you can’t help but be awestruck by the sheer volume of life that a marshy ecosystem sustains every moment. 

 

                                             

 A long, long time ago, the mighty river Ganges decided to change her course(during one of her whims, I suppose) while flowing through the plains of Bengal. At a place known as Chupi Chor(or Purbasthali) located in the heart of the Kalna Subdivisional town of Burdwan district, Ganga formed an ox bow lake and started flowing in an altered course. The rich fertile soil of that region coupled with the moribund waters of the holy Ganges developed a unique ecosystem that blooms with life every moment. And when life blooms in full swing, the winged species are quick to call it their homes. Some prefer to call it their own home, while for others it serves as a winter retreat from the icy cold climate of Siberia.

                                                Purbasthali plays host to a multitude of winged species, both migratory and residential, attracting them with its offerings of food, shelter and a promise of security from those who threaten their very existence. Once-upon-a-time-poachers-turned-into-conservationists have helped develop Purbasthali into one of the best birding destinations in West Bengal. Located at a distance of 160kms from Kolkata, Purbasthali is very well connected through a network of state and national highways. Its nearest railhead is Purbasthali station (PSAE) which lies on the Burdwan-Katwa line. Local transit option is limited to electric ‘Toto’s which are quite inexpensive and fun to ride.

The first view of the beautiful marshes can be best experienced from the lone watchtower adjoining the boating ‘ghat’. It offers 360 degrees of unobstructed field of vision and helps to create a broad map of the region in your mind. The boatmen start to arrive at the Ghats from early morning. All of these boats are hand propelled and the boatmen usually charge Rs.150/hour for a boat. The entire stretch of the ox bow lake can be covered in 5-6 hours.

                                          As the boat starts meandering through the lively moorlands, a Kingfisher suddenly shoots past you, breaks the water surface and comes up with a prized catch! You are most welcome to watch him have his breakfast perched on a tree branch. Sometimes they aren’t that lucky because if it’s a puffed fish, they have to wait for the air inside the fish to get released before they can actually gulp it down. Wonderful, isn’t it?

Now that you have seen the common blue Kingfisher, it’s time to feast your eyes on a large group of pheasant tailed ‘Jacana’s who are busy figuring out their day’s menu in the marshes. The pheasant tailed Jacana and the bronze winged Jacana are easy to spot in these marshes thanks to their striking plumage. They are mostly found in portions of South-East Asia.

If you can manage to turn away from them, a small Pratincole gets ready to grab your attention. They are common in parts of Burma, Cambodia, Thailand and are widely regarded as long distance migrants. Their unmistakable chubbiness coupled with bright sparkling eyes make them endearing to bird lovers and humans alike! But don’t let their cuteness deceive you even for a moment. They can take off and change their flying direction at the drop of a pin, just like Swallows.

As the boat continues its journey towards the Ganges, a Purple Heron waits patiently for a catch. This member of the heronry usually breeds in  Europe, Asia and Africa. Once it has located its prey, the majestic flight takes place, as if in slow motion.

The hand powered boats help to keep the silence of the marshes intact and allows people to get up close and personal with the feathered visitors. And if you get too close, the birds suddenly start their flight and leave behind long lasting ripples on the otherwise placid water. The most easily disturbed ones are the flocks of pochards who take off instantly.

   

If left undisturbed, they spend hours and hours, bobbing up and down with the small ripples in a particularly joyous and peaceful rhythm. Like this flock, right here.

Occasionally you will find flocks of Ibis flying overhead and searching for places to sit and brood over life's complexities. They are extremely picky about calling a stretch of marsh, their own. Against a deep blue sky, the Ibis spread their wings and inspire people to dream of conquering new heights.

The birds of Purbasthali are a unique blend of Nature's most colorful gifts. They come in various shapes,sizes and colours with unique calls that reverberate through the waterbody adding a whole new dimension to the melancholic marshes. The ambiance of the place manages to strike a chord deep down a birding enthusiast's heart.

The calm, stagnant waters teeming with millions of insects and bird feed help bring the winged creatures extremely close to us each year. And we as responsible human beings should keep our part of the deal by ensuring their safety and wholehearted existence on the marshes. Their happy cacophony should be the only form of reward that we can hope to receive in the years to come. And every time we decide to get lost in their calls, a new birdie breaks out of the protective egg shell of the mother bird and looks up to the sky with the dream of spreading her tiny wings and exploring the great beyond. Let's help her to realize that dream :)

P.S. This beautiful trip was completed as a part of 'The Adventouring Buzzards Club' Republic Day Ride held on the 26th of January, 2018. A special round of thanks goes out to my fellow buzzards Somok Sarkar and Santanu Das for accompanying me to the marshes and enjoying every bit of our birding trip :)

This picture was clicked with our boatman Jayanta da!





And here's to the bulls which keep us on the road and bring us back home safely :) Thank you Royal Enfield !