Diary 9 : Bhetnai (Vetnai) : Black Buck's Kindergarten

Imagine a hot dreary summer day with dry, cracked Earth and the last droplets of water in the atmosphere vanishing right infront of your eyes. Your throat is parched and you crave for a drop of the “liquid life”. You are almost at the edge of life and death and it so appears that the judgement is solely dependent upon the Rain God’s mercy. Exactly in this state you get to catch a glimpse of a majestic four legged creature with a shiny black coat and magnificent horns. And as soon as you spot it, a drizzle starts and it soon transforms into a beautiful rainfall. Completely dazed and surprised you immediately tag the creature as “ God’s messenger” and build a bond with him. He had saved your life and in return you must swear to protect him forever. 

Bhetnai (Vetnai or Vetnoi), a quaint hamlet in Orissa’s Ganjam district has played host to one of the most elegant Nature’s gifts to mankind : The Indian Antelope or the Black Buck since eternity. No one knows how exactly they started blossoming in those grasslands all of a sudden. And like most unknown “objects”, local people have developed a legend through word of mouth. This being passed onto generations has managed to build a small army of 15 men from the village who have dedicated their lives for the protection of these wonderful antelopes. Welcome to another treasure trove of Orissa ! The Kindergarten of the Black Bucks ! 

Bhetnai or Vetnai is located at the cradle of the Eastern Ghats. It's a 1.5 hour journey from Balugaon, the nearest railhead. One must plan a day trip to this place because there aren't any places to stay at Bhetnai. Accomodation options are plenty at Balugaon. The road is in good condition and directions  are given in English (unlike most places in Orissa) . There are plenty of picturesque locations to cool off the car's engine and sink in the melancholic Eastern Ghats hills. 

As soon as you get near to the Aska Sugar Factory, the whole landscape undergoes a dramatic change. Bluish mounds start to rise close to the horizon and the sky takes on a cheerful tone. 

The beauty of Bhetnai lies in its sheer camouflaging ability to disguise itself as a small village and the Black Buck's playground simultaneously. People in this village share their lives with these creatures weaving a fairy tale like existence. At first when you park your car at Nature's Parking Lot and try to scan the horizon for the antelopes, you are terribly disappointed because you can't spot any of them.

Nature's Parking Lot !

And then, as soon as your guide starts to point out the Black Bucks, your eyes light up. You see a bright black speck sprinting across the horizon. It takes a little time to adjust your vision in the broad daylight but you're delighted to see scores of them playing in those dry grasslands.

And all this while, you have kept really quiet so as to protect the tranquility of this place. But it's not enough. These beautiful creatures are extremely shy and as soon as you inch closer to them, they start to recede. There's a bright white patch at their rear portion and it looks amazing to see a team of Black Bucks ambling back towards their nest at the foothills of the Eastern Ghats.  

 These majestic animals undergo a lot of changes in their circle of life. When they are born they resemble tiny deer cubs. As they grow older, males develop a stunning black coat that gets darker with age. Females are brownish in colour. If you're lucky enough, you might get to spot the oldest of the herd ! He looks like this gentleman in the background !

It feels magical to see their entire life being played out infront of your eyes as you observe them from close quarters. The highly energetic kids, the senile grandpas and the grandmas, the midlife-crisis-fighting mamas and the papas engaged in banter and an occasional loner all play their part diligently. They all live together under the same blue sky sharing the same grassland, calling it their very own. Just like a poet's dream. Lennon's words come true once again. 
   

                                                     "  Imagine there's no heaven

                                                             It's easy if you try

                                                              No hell below us

                                                             Above us only sky

                                                          Imagine all the people

                                                               Living for today   "

And in a quiet little hamlet, the circle of life goes on with the passing wind, oblivious of all the perils that threaten the very existence of mankind. They are happy. And it's infectious. There's this smile that refuses to leave your lips long after you have seen the last of them recede back into the horizon.
Inner Peace at last !

Diary 8 : Mangalajodi: Tales from the Moorland

Moorlands have always been an evocative landscape, inspiring countless artists to render them in a mystical perspective. Mangalajodi is no exception. It is one of the largest marshes in Eastern India, sitting at the northern top of the Chilka (Chilika) Lake in Orissa. Often tagged as the "Birder's Paradise", it plays a dutiful, sincere and a loving host to a staggering figure of 9 million avifauna (as per 2010 census) during the peak season ( November-January ). What makes it even more beautiful is it's backstory.

                      Moors or swamps are supposed to be haunted. Innumerable mentions of swamp monsters and evil spirits have frequented Children's Literature through ages. In case of Mangalajodi, these monsters and evil spirits came in the form of men, mostly searching for a livelihood in the marshes. These fishermen used to spread nets and capture the poor birds and sell their meat to the local restaurants and hotels. The sheer number of birds visiting the marshes each year made this livelihood even more enticing. And then one fine day an angel, again in the form of a human decided to change the fate of this marsh forever. His name was Nanda Kishore Bhujabal. He started a lifelong fight for the birds and after years of persuasion and pitfalls and struggles, his vision started slowly coming back to life. Together with the Royal Bank of Scotland and Indian Grameen Services, he proposed an alternative livelihood for the erstwhile poachers to turn into watchful protectors who would take pride in conserving Mother Nature's rich basket of feathers,beaks and shrill calls. These fishermen have now become full time watchmen keeping a silent vigil on anyone and everyone who might try to harm the avifauna. They serve as oarsmen and guides, taking tourists on boat rides through the marshes, pointing out the myriad varieties of birds and sharing valuable information about their life cycle.

                        Mangalajodi, with its fair share of migratory and resident birds lies near the NH16. It is located 80 kms away from Bhubaneshwar. Nearest airport is the Bhubhaneshwar airport. Adjacent railheads are Mukteshwar(Puri) and Balugaon. There are ample road signs all along the way so that it's very easy to spot. Staying options are limited to Mangalajodi Ecotourism Cottage and Godwit Eco Cottage. Both of them can be booked online. It's best to book atleast a month in advance during the peak season.

From the Mangalajodi Eco Tourism Cottage, a reddish gravel road runs for 2.5 km to the Jetty. The shrill voices of almost a million birds can be heard even before you have reached the jetty. Their sharp yet pleasant calls against a tranquil village background track offer a stark but a welcoming contrast. The only way to explore the vast stretches of the swamp is the locally made wooden boats that are propelled by the muscle power of the boatmen. The depth of water varies from 1-1.5 feet in most places and as the boat ambles peacefully along the channels, the birds come into focus. For the first timers, it appears as if there is atleast one bird for every square inch ! And each and every bird is deeply engrossed in one of the two main activities of life : searching for food and delving deep into philosophical thoughts with a full tummy.

And while you're busy straining your eyes to differentiate between a Godwit and a Ruff, you suddenly hear a flap of wings and turn around. A Purple Heron has just started its flight and you can't help but stare in awe at the sheer beauty of such a majestic creature with a wingspan that almost makes the Airbus A380 look tiny!

As your boat trudges along the marsh in its own rhythm, the guide points out several other species that catch his attention. The guides are well equipped with a pair of powerful binoculars and a Guide Book on the birds found in the subcontinent.






On a typical December afternoon, one can expect Northern Pintails in flocks, Black Winged Stilts, Garhwals, Northern Shoveller, Purple Herons, Goliath Herons, an extremely senile looking Grey Heron and countless other species. The best part is when you get to hear about their original habitat.

Some have traveled all the way from faraway lands like Siberia, Manash Sarobar in Tibet, Tundra regions etc. It is a testimonial of Nature's magic that every year they come all the way from their homeland to a tiny marsh in India, oblivious of the innumerable uncertainties and danger lurking behind every innocent flap of their wings.









We met these two Brahmini Ducks or Rudy Shell Ducks near twilight. They apparently had a fight and now were maintaining a strict LoC between their operations ! Our guide took us very close to the ducks and told us that they were always found in pairs.The male Brahmini Duck (to the left) has a characteristic band all along his neck. Drenched in the twilight, their orange plumage looked divine. And just as we were getting extremely close to them, they took notice and immediately flew off. They left behind some small ripples on the marshy waters and a piece of colorful memory.

It would be an understatement if we claimed that Mangalajodi is just a "birder's paradise". It appeals to everyone who is not afraid to be surprised by one of Nature's most innocent forms of life. It doesn't really matter whether you know all their names or even recognize one species from a very similar but a different one. All it asks of you is a little bit of your time and love. It requires you to be a silent audience to all their activities and eventually you start to feel a connection with them. You have seen them real close. You have heard their sounds. You know their story. And in a way you have found your freedom in between those wings that you keep hidden in your daily life. Yes, they have inspired you to taste the unknown. They have inspired you to come out of your comfort zone and explore the world. They have shown you what freedom tastes like in this chained world.

And yes. They have taught you how to be young, wild and free.

Diary 7 : Henry's Island : Kolkata's almost private beach !

Dream

                                                                     
Sea beaches have always been a source of inspiration for artists. The white frothy waves bathed in the afterglow of the setting red sun against a picturesque and dramatic blue sky have beckoned humanity time and time again. One such example is the beach at Henry’s Island. Think pristine white sand, rolling waves and a host of mangrove and Casuarina trees border lining the crescent beach. Yes that’s exactly the stuff, our dreams are made up of !







The quaint, desolate beach is located approximately 130 km from Kolkata. NH117 is a driver’s delight due its silky smooth tarmac. Travel time is around 3.5 hours and this includes a thrilling barge ride towards the end. 

Staying options at Henry’s Island are limited to a resort run by the West Bengal Fisheries Department. Rooms can be booked online at : http://wbsfdc.com/booking-procedure/. Just incase there are no rooms available, you can always drive down to Bakkhali, around 4 kms away. There are numerous Tourist Lodges at Bakkhali and most of them are pretty decent. Some hotels also allow pets to check in with their loving owners !

The road leading up to the beach is a narrow path through a mangrove forest which emerges onto a peculiar landscape complete with parched dry earth, shrubs and levees. The entrance to the beach lies inside a wide gaping hole through a Casuarina forest.







The first view of the beach will be a special one as your eyes will try to adjust to the blinding light outside and the process will render a hazy white sunny beach with a blue sky and light brown char lands peeping out from the shallow depths of the sea. All of these will have the familiar taste of salt and a fishy smell that lend the beach its characteristic flavor. You will have breathtaking views of the shoreline bordered by mangroves and casuarina trees. The vegetation line runs like a wall along the beach and the greenery will soothe your stressed nerves perfectly.








There's a watch tower at Henry's Island, which delivers 360 degrees of beautiful views of the whole island. The crescent nature of the beach can be observed from the top of the watchtower.















The serene surroundings might tempt the child in you to dig your hands deep into the soft white sand and start building sand castles with fresh vigour! It will give you another chance to introspect on the countless activities that you had tried to pursue in your distant childhood and rekindle your love for things left long behind. The sound of the waves will be like oxygen to your ears which have become accustomed to the city noises. A new chance at living life like the good ol’ days ? Maybe.







Nature has her own unique ways of calling us back to her lap. Sometimes white sands, blue skies and soft waves serve as her messengers. And sometimes we, humans just play along with her tunes. Some of us call that life. And the rest call it daydreaming.

Diary 6 : Santiniketan : A Spring Fantasy

Souls, without the magic of Colours find it terribly difficult to survive. And that's why Rabindranath Tagore, the most colourful wordsmith ever, started the tradition of celebrating the arrival of Spring with Colours. Thus the "Basanta Utsav"(Spring Celebration) was conceived. And it was carefully nurtured with the choicest of Spring Colours so that it could evolve into a global Festival because people all over the world need colours. Not to survive, but to live.

Such a riot of Colours need a place to mix and create many more loving hues. For this festival, the place chosen was Santiniketan. Translated into English, it reads the Abode of Peace. So when colours meet in the Abode of Peace, chaos follows close behind, upsetting the gray and dulled souls, pushing them into a journey that sends out a cloud of colours of cosmic proportions up in the air as a celebration of their union.

The Abode of Peace : Santiniketan '15

Shantiniketan, with its distinctive character and style, decks up for the Spring Festival ('Basanta Utsav') in a remarkable floral way whose chief ingredients are the 'Palash' and the 'Fagun Bou'. The flowers heap mounds of colours on the otherwise red soil of the Rarh region of West Bengal.

'Palash'

'Fagun Bou'

As Nature readies herself, her people rehearse for as long as a month to make the festival a resounding success. On the eve of Basanta Utsav, a musical night is staged at the University grounds.

Sitars, Sarods, Tablas and Harmoniums together make up the perfect Spring ambience which is pierced by strong vocals of the performing artists.Since it is the beginning of March, there is still a slight chill in the evening air which makes a cup of tea or coffee seem even more inviting. The local Chai-wallahs make brisk business as they go over to fulfill cups, which sometimes spill over with chit-chat about the next day's schedule.


The Morning Baitalik 

The early morning air with the essence of Spring, greets people as they rush to take their postions along the fence that has been put up along the 'red' road. Rabindranath Tagore had taken this route to to herald the arrival of Spring, followed by his students at the Viswa Bharati University. His way of welcoming the season has stood the test of time and even to this day, people abide by it. A procession starts from the 'Ghantaghor' and slowly makes it way to the University grounds.

As with all festivals, the rush hour happens just before the main event. And Basanta Utsav is no exception. The rush is most quintessentially felt amongst the young guns who are all brimming over with excitement and trepidations.

With the eternal lines of the bard's song, " Khol Dar Khol , Laglo Je Dol ", the procession begins. It is indeed unique as it is led by the youngest batch of students enrolled at the 'Ashrama'. Tiny-tots taking energetic and boisterous strides, sometimes mistaking the dance steps but making it up with their toothless grin and enthusiastic eyes !

Their teachers are quick to point out their wrong footings and are adept in damage control. Even spacing becomes crucial when too many little ladies and gentlemen engage in the most prolific form of a dance that has transcended the boundaries of race and culture. Choreography and human error never felt this beautiful before.

Two steps behind them, the seniors continue the procession with colourful sticks (similar to 'Dandiya' sticks) that clash against each other, adding a certain rhythm that reverberates jubilantly. Their steps are perfectly synchronised and it is pure joy to observe their expressions from such a close range.

Their graceful movements coupled with the sonorous
songs of Spring together make up the most beautiful way
to set the pace of the festival. Be it by humming or lip-syncing, people blend in cheerfully and Tagore's dream of achieving a cultural harmony through song and dance comes true.
Time and time again.

After the procession makes its way into the grounds, the festivities begin on stage. With each song and dance sequence, the 'Celebration of Spring' comes alive. The crowd is totally oblivious of a fierce March Sun as the performers captivate the visual and the auditory senses of the audience. Tagore's Spring songs usher in an atmosphere of brotherhood, love and beauty while the world blends into a huge palette of colors that can rival the greatest rainbows..

The last song on the playlist comes up and with the words "Rangiye Die Jao Jao " filling the air, cloudbursts of colored powder (abheer) shower upon the people. Humans in all shapes and sizes, caste and religion, race and creed throw the Abheer up, up towards heaven. And they come back enveloping the world in a colorful protective dome which far exceeds the perimeter of Santiniketan and Tagore's way of uniting people through a common love for colors shines forth brightly like never before.

Abheer smearing happens immediately, punctuated by the steady lyrics of the song. Colours find their way into the unlikeliest of places - the tiny crescent shaped region behind the ears, eyebrows, innocent nostrils and even inside those hearts which open their doors to the world. Humanity lets itself get smudged by the brightest hues of abheer.

 It's just as the bard had predicted, a century ago - "Rong Jeno Tor Morme Lage". Translation renders : "Let the colours touch your souls...".
Indeed it has touched ours. In the most divine way.